Technical sign off

Contemporary Victorian Hairstyles Practice

Here is a contemporary Victorian inspired Hairstyle I created during my own time. firstly I prepped the hair with heat protector and shine spray, following this I then back combed the top section before tying into a ponytail using a hair elastic to create volume in the top section which is a popular look today. following this I then used curling tongs to curl the bottom layer of hair. The style is simple and is inspired by the Victorian half up and half down look.

Instead of curling the front section of hair I left her fringe down as she had a full fringe and it would not have been long enough to curl without looking odd.

I tied the to section back and used a finishing brush and hairspray to smooth down the tied back hair on top of her head to create a shiny smooth and very neat section where the hair lay flat to the head.

To finish the look i sprayed the entire style with hairspray to hold it firmly in place and to hide any flyaway or stray hairs. This style was influenced with a Victorian style practiced in class tie on my dolls head (pictured below) I used the top section of hair flat against the head instead of up and curled to give it a more modern twist which could also be worn during the day time without looking too dressy it can also be worn in the evening as a simple elegant style.

Products used:

• Heat protection spray
• l'Oreal Shine spray
• Hairspray

Tools used:

• Heated curling tongs
• Hair elastic
• Pintail comb
• Cutting comb
• Finishing/back combing brush for smooth finish

Victorian Hairstyles for Miss Havisham and Estella

Theses are my Victorian hairstyles for the characters of Miss Havisham and Estella.

The first 3 pictures are of Estella's hair in which I sectioned of the hair into two sections to create a half up and half down style. I then Curled the top half using small sections and heated curling tongs to create long curls about and in thick separating two curls at the front of the head which I then twisted around the side of the head to join the bunch of the curls at the back.

I then pinned the curls at the rear of the head to the area surrounding the hair elastic holding up the top section of hair. I did this firstly to hide the elastic and secondly to create a bunch of curls which lead down the hair in a waterfall shape to blend in with the curled underneath section.

The bottom section I again curled using heated tongs creating long winding curls about and inch around in size. 

To finish the look I sprayed the hair keeping it in place and to hide any stray or flyaway hairs.

Products used:

• Hiarspray

Tools used:

• Heated curling tongs
• Hair elastic
• Hair grips and Pins

Estella Hair from the back

Estella hair from the side

Miss Havishams hair

To create the style for Miss Havisham's Hair I decided to create a style similar to that of Estella's but without a front twisted back section and instead I let the hair hang from either side of the face to giver her a messy withered look and draw the face down.

I sectioned the hair in to two main sections one ponytail about midway up the head and a section underneath for the remaining hair to sit.

I curled both the upper and bottom sections using the heated curling tongs and pinned the curls from the upper section into a curled bun.

After completing the pinned curls i took a backcombing brush and back combed the hair to create a messy static look as I wanted the hair to look like it had been styled that way for years and started to fall out of place. I then sprayed the entire head with dry shampoo to create a grey mist over the hair so it appeared grey and aged.

After spraying the hair with a layer of hairspray I then pinned into position the flower head band and veil made from a piece of netted material

Products used:

• Dry Shampoo
• Hairspray

Tools used:

• Heated Curling tongs
• Hair elastic
• Flowers
• Netting to create veil
• Hair pins

Miss Havisham's hair prior to application of dry shampoo

Miss Havishams Hair completed with dry shampoo and accessories

Dark Eyes and Lips

Dark eyes and lips can be used to create a Gothic style make up and are also popular for strong female characters as they stand out and draw attention to the features.

To Create Dark Lips 

 To create dark lips first start by cleansing and moisturizing the skin and applying a lip balm of vasaline to the lips to soften them and reduce cracking and dry skin.

after the lip balm/vasaline has had a little while to sit on the skin remove excess with a tissue.

Use a dark liner 1 shade darker than the lip colour to line the lips using strong lines pressing fairly firmly to reduce uneven edges. lining the lips will prevent the lip colour from bleeding.

Use the chosen dark lip colour and a fine lip brush to fill in the lip area evenly make sure the colour is applied in the same thickness across the lips to prevent lighter patches.

Products to use 

• Cleanser
• Moisturizer
• Lip balm/vasaline
• Dark lip liner
• Dark lip colour

Tools to use:

• Tissues
• Fine Lip brush

Black

Dark Red

Black and Dark Red Mix

Dark Eyes

How to create dark eyes look:

Start by cleansing, moisturizing and priming the area, follow by using loose powder to create smooth, dry even surface to work on the eye area.

Next apply a light brown shade to the crease area of the eye to create shape and shadow. you can use contouring products if you wish as this is slightly darker than the natural skin shade. Apply using a fluffy eye shadow brush.

Next apply a slightly darker shade of eye shadow in my example below I used a M.A.C eye shadow in the shade of Espresso which is a greyish/brown shade. apply using the same technique as before and using a similar fluffy brush but with shorter bristles for more control. Use the brush in a back and fourth motion to blend the darker shade with the first lighter shade.

Next choose your darkest shade in this example I used my Black Kryolan eye shadow from my eye shadow palette and used the same brush as I used to apply the M.AC eye shadow. Again take time to blend the colours to avoid leaving harsh lines and a patchy finish.

Apply a thick black eye line using a liquid or gel eyeliner slightly underneath the lower lash line and across the upper lash line, this will help to define the eyes and add depth.

Apply a black pencil liner along the liquid line and smudge in using a rubber sponge to create a smoky effect line.

Finally use a mascara in Black.Start by wiggling the mascara brush into the lash line to eliminate any uncovered areas between the lashes and pull up and through the lashes to ensure the length of each individual lash is covered.

Finally you can create a much more dramatic look by applying false lashes which I have not done in my example as I am sensitive to false lash adhesive.

Products used:

• Cleanser
• Moisturiser
• Porefessional Benefit primer
• Loose powder
• Light brown eye shadow (contour)
• MAC medium brown shade in Espresso
• Black Kryolan eye shadow
• Black collection 2000 Liquid Liner
• Black pencil liner Maybeline
• Black Max factor Mascara

Tools used:

• Medium soft eye shadow brush
• Fluffy Kryolan eyeshadow brush
• Blending brush
• Pencil sharpener
• Rubber sponge

Black and Brown Dark Eyes 

Death masks

creating death masks using Eye shadow to create darkened areas on the face where shadowing would appear.

Products used:

• Kryolan foundation pallete
• Loose powder
• Mixture of grey and black eyeshadows

Tools used:

• Blender brush
• Eye shadow brush
• Kabuki brush
• Contouring brush
• Blusher brush

Claudia

These are my images for the Claudia look which I took last week in Kat's lesson. I am pretty pleased with the way the hair turned out although the idea was very simple. I wanted to create a crazy messy look of someone who is a bit wild and doesn't take great care of her hair and I think I achieved this result well. to create this look I used a backcombing brush to separate sections of hair and back comb to stand up and create a messy look.

The make up idea looked good on a face chart although I was not able to create the look as well as I had anticipated during the assessment I had previously created better results in pracatices but panicked under pressure.

I used 

• Kryolan foundadtion plus white supra colour for a pale base
• A mix of purple and blue Kryolan eye shadows
• A mix of red Krylolan lip colours mixed with Black Supra colour
• Black Supra colour 
• Black Eyeliner
• And the models own Mascara

• To create this look I painted on the stripes of the cheeks and eyes to create a fine painted effect and used the mixture of eye shadow colours to blend to create a smoky eye look
• I darkened the lashes using a brown eyeshadow
• I used a thick black eyeliner to define and darken the eyes

Quentin

Theses are my images for the Quentin look. 

These are my final images of Quentin. As I chose the words "save us" referring to the broken relationship between Claudia and Quentin I decided to make this my main focus in the pictures rather than purely focusing on the fact that Quentin is a Vampire which I had planned to do previously. My initial thoughts were to shoot the pictures in a graveyard and design make up which reflected a stereotypical Vampire with a nasty face and lots of blood, However, after considering the fact that the last week has been extremely sunny, and sunlight of course kills vampires, not only this but sunshine is most often than not associated with happiness and cheerful characters, neither of the characters I have chosen are particularly happy so I decided on an indoor shoot. To add to this I wanted the pictures yo reflect the words I had chosen as well as the mood and thoughts connected with the words. Because of this I decided to use an indoor location which looks like it could be Claudia's apartment. 

The brief describes how Claudia is insecure and jealous, which causes her to become fixated on thoughts of Quentin betraying her. When Claudia has these thoughts she imprisons him in her flat because in her mind that will stop him wondering off with or meeting anyone else. I wanted to use this idea of the couple falling out to create my pictures. Quentin adores Claudia and whilst he does sometimes irritate her, he wants the relationship to work out. Therefore he would be the ones saying "save us" which is why I wanted my model to have a sad, serious expression as though he is deep in thought. I also styled Quentin to show the side of him that does make an effort hence why he is wearing a suit, this Quentin is trying to fix the problems Claudia has created in her mind and trying to win her back.

The reason I decided not to go all out with the scary Vampire make up is because I thought this would take away from the mood of the story and mask my models facial expressions.

For this make up look I used my Kryolan foundation pallete in the lightest shade as my model already had fairly  fair skin but I wanted it to be just a shade lighter to create a washed out look as vampires are the living dead. The make up did in real life look quite pale although this hasn't shown so well on the camera pictures, therefore if I was to do this again I would use some white supra colour in with the foundation for an extra light base. I also applied the base to the lips also to create a pale dead look, as though the life and colour has been drained from his face. 

The eye make up around the models eyes is a mix of a shimmery grey with a hint of green in it from an eyeshadow pallete I bought in super drug. I liked the idea of a slight shimmer only around the eyes as vampires are supernatural creatures and this gave the make up a magical look. The other colour I used was the black eyeshadow from my Kryolan pallete, I used this merely to create darkness and shadow around the eye socket. In addition to this I applied liquid liner underneath the eyes and used the black kryolan shadow mixed with a little water to create a smudged look as though he had been crying. Finally I used a black mascara to darken the eyes further.

List of products used:

• Kryolan foundation palette
• Supra colour palette
• Loose Powder
• Shimmery silver and grey eye shadow mixture
• Max factor mascara in black
• Black eyeliner
• Eyeshadow in dark grey/brown to darken brows
• Hairspray
• Osmo hair wax

List of Tools used:

• Foundation brushes
• Rubber Sponges
• Powder puffs
• Powder brushe
• Kabuki brush
• Blending brush
• Eye shadow brush
• Eyeliner brush
• Cutting comb
• Backcombing/finishing brush

Shooting Miss Havisham Continuity Part 2

These are my images from the second Miss Havisham shoot. I did experience some unexpected problems during this shoot which hindered my ability to create an exact replica of the first attempt. However I do feel that the result was similar. One of the main problems which I did not take account for was the fact that I used a different brand of dry shampoo and was unable to cover all the hair sufficiently therefore the hair appeared darker than during the first shoot.

The make up I was fairly pleased with although in the camera photos appeared to be much lighter than the first shoot however on the images taken using my phone the colours and lines appear much more visible.

I used exactly the same techniques during this assessment as in the first one although I failed to print pictures as a visual aid during this assessment so only had the images on my phone to refer to this became awkward and time consuming and is something I have learnt not to do again in future assessments.

Checks which are necessary to be carried out in the consultation.

Q) Is the client sensitive or allergic to any products? 

A) No my client is not.

Q) Are any contra indications present?

Is the skin okay to apply make up to? No broken skin cuts or abrasions?

A) My client had none of the above.

Q) what is the clients skin type?

A) my client has a normal skin type

Q) what is the clients skin tone? 

A) My clients skin tone is warm, oriental toned

Q) The clients eye shape and colour?

A) My client has wide set dark brown eyes.

Q) what is the clients hair colour?

A) My client has dark brown hair.

These questions are all extremely important when deciding which products to use and which colours to choose to create the look you want to achieve. 

 The products I used to create this look were:

●Mixture of Kryolan foundations to create matching skin tone shade

●Loose powder

●Eyeshadow from sun kissed palette

●Kryolan contour palette in grey's brown and pink

●Black max factor mascara

●Dry shampoo

●Hairspray

Tools I used

●Range of Kryolan brushes 

●Rubber sponges

●Hair Elastics

●Hair curling tongs

Shooting Estella

These are my images from the Estella shoot. Overall I was pleased with the way the make up turned out. I wanted it to be historically accurate and natural looking which I think I achieved well. the back of the hair I was extremely pleased with using curling tongs to curl the hair and creating a half up and half down Victorian style. However when viewed face on the Hair was not even on each side of the head with curls on one side protruding instead of lying flat against the head like the opposite side.

Checks which are necessary to be carried out in the consultation.

Q) Is the client sensitive or allergic to any products? 

A) No my client is not.

Q) Are any contra indications present?

Is the skin okay to apply make up to? No broken skin cuts or abrasions?

A) My client had none of the above.

Q) what is the clients skin type?

A) my client has a normal skin type

Q) what is the clients skin tone? 

A) My clients skin tone is warm, oriental toned

Q) The clients eye shape and colour?

A) My client has wide set dark brown eyes.

Q) what is the clients hair colour?

A) My client has dark brown hair.

These questions are all extremely important when deciding which products to use and which colours to choose to create the look you want to achieve. 

List of Products used

• Kryolan foundation palette mixture of shades
• Loose powder
• Sunkissed Eyeshadow palette in light brown and medium brown
• Kryloan lip palette in lightest orangey pink shade
• Max factor mascara in black
• Kryolan contouring palette in lightest brown and pink for cheeks
• Hairspray
• Dry shampoo

List of Tools used

• Heated hair curling tongs
• Hair elastics
• Hair grips and pins
• Backcoming brush
• Cutting comb
• Pintail comb
• Denman brush

Shooting Miss Havisham Continuity part 1

I think the Assessment for my Miss Havisham look went pretty well although there are some areas which I am less happy about.

Starting with the positive things... I was happy with the final look of the make up, on this occasion I altered the colour of the foundation slightly from the different combinations of colours I had used in my practice sessions. I think the mixture I used this time was a fairly good match to the tone and colour of Phoebes skin so the foundation didn't look too obviously fake and made up. I was also pleased that I managed to finish the make up application in good time to style the hair and take the photographs I needed.
I think the Photographs turned out quite well, although I may use the pictures I took using my phone as a reference in my next assessment as the details such as the wrinkle lines and colours used are much more visable in these images and as the aim of the assessment is continuity, therefore I need to be spot on in my application. However I am very pleased with the way the hair has turned out in the camera shots, the grey colour is much more visible and the hair stands out from the background and looks a lot more messier which is the look I was going for, as I wanted my Miss Havisham to look haggered, withered and slightly crazy.
Although the hair doesn't look awful in the pictures I was fairly dissapointed with how it turned out on the day. I wanted to create a style which had much more volume, however in my practice sessions I did not include the veil which was a last minute idea. therefore I did not consider the extra weight that this would add to the hair which resulted in flattening the style. I also think it would have been a wiser decision to style the hair before the make up as the hair could have done with a little extra time curling as Phoebes hair is very thick and naturally very straight. Also when I sprayed the hair with the dry shampoo it left a powdery residue on the skin which was hard to remove without smudging the make up.

Checks which are necessary to be carried out in the consultation.

Q) Is the client sensitive or allergic to any products? 

A) No my client is not.

Q) Are any contra indications present?

Is the skin okay to apply make up to? No broken skin cuts or abrasions?

A) My client had none of the above.

Q) what is the clients skin type?

A) my client has a normal skin type

Q) what is the clients skin tone? 

A) My clients skin tone is warm, oriental toned

Q) The clients eye shape and colour?

A) My client has wide set dark brown eyes.

Q) what is the clients hair colour?

A) My client has dark brown hair.

These questions are all extremely important when deciding which products to use and which colours to choose to create the look you want to achieve. 

  The products I used to create this look were:

●Mixture of Kryolan foundations to create matching skin tone shade

●Loose powder

●eyeshadow from sun kissued pallette

●Kryolan contour pallete in greys brown and pink

●Black max factor mascara

●Dry shampoo

●Hairspray

Tools I used

●Range of Kryolan brushes 

●Rubber sponges

●Hair Elastics

●Hair curling tongs

Burns

Today we created burns using a variety of different forms of gelatine and supra colour


How to use block gelatine:

• Break gelatine and place in a plastic bowl
• Microwave until liquid form
• Check temperature using a small dab of liquid gelatine on the wrist before applying to the skin as gelatine can become extremely hot and cause REAL burns.
• When the gelatine is warm and pliable spread a thin layer using a spatula on to the skin
• Use the other end of the spatula to pick up corners of the gelatine to create a scabbed peeling look
• Use supra colour to create blood, scabs and swelling
• Use fake puss and supra colour in Yellows and Whites to create puss and infection.

How to use cooking gelatine:

• Place gelatine in a plastic bowl to microwave
• Microwave until liquid form
• Check temperature using a small dab of liquid gelatine on the wrist before applying to the skin as gelatine can become extremely hot and cause REAL burns.
• When the gelatine is warm and pliable spread a thin layer using a spatula on to the skin
• Dry using a hair dryer on a cool heat
• Repeat process as above using block gelatine

Tools used:

• Spatula
• Cotton buds
• Plastic bowl for microwaving
• Glycerin
• Pin for tearing gelatine
• Hairdryer

Illnesses: sweat, fever, pallor, tears, dirt, dirty teeth

In this weeks session we were shown a demonstration on making someone look as though they were suffering an illness, making them look flushed sweaty and dirty. we also created dirty teeth and tears,

Products to use:

• Kryolan Tooth Enamel, comes in a range of Browns, Grey, Black and Mustard Yellow/Brown to create nicotine stained teeth
• Glycerin for tears and sweat
• Supra colour for paleand or red/flushed skin

To create illness using make up:

• Apply base in a slightly paler shade than normal ensure to blend the make up down the neck and around the ears so the that coverage is natural and it doesn't look like they have been made up.
•  Use the same technique for darkening and emphasising bags under the eyes as used in the ageing process, with a Browny/Greyish colour and use fingertips to blend so darkened areas look natural.
• Powder very lightly 
• Drop on glycerin to create sweat droplets and tears

To create dirt and dirty teeth:

• To create dirty skin use a mixture of supra colours and or camouflage concealers in Browns, Greys, Blacks and Yellows.
• You can also use brown black eye shadows as well to create a dirty soot like effect
• Use a sponge to dab onto areas where dirt would collect for example the hands, neck and face 
• Rub Brown and black supra colour under the finger nails to create dirty fingernails
• To create dirty teeth firstly make sure the tooth/teeth you want to discolour are completely dry. 
• Paint on the tooth enamel avaoidng lips and gums and wait until completely dry until closing the mouth

Tools used:

• Foundation brush
• Stipple spinge
• Rubber sponge
• Powder puff
• Powder brush
• Fine lip colour brush
• Fine Eyeshadow brush
• Cape
• Paper towel to catch powder

Example of the use of tooth enamel to create dirty and stained teeth

Week 2 cuts, scratches, scars and perfect black eye

Using Wax and Gelatine combined with Supracolour and make up to create Cuts, Scratches, Bruises and Scars

• Prepare Skin by cleansing and moisturising and apply a base.
• Using your supra colour palette choose colours such as Reds, Blues, Blacks, Purples and Yellows (any colour you would find in a real bruise or scratch)
• warm wax so it is soft and ply able and mould and smooth using fingers to create the appearance of deep or shallow cuts in the skin.
• Use an extremely fine brush to draw on scractches using red supra colour then using a lighter red dab very lightly around the scratch to resemble soreness and swelling.
• Use fingertips to blend the dabbed areas into the skin so it looks like natural redness of the skin and powder to finish
• Fake blood can be applied to create the effect of deep cuts and bleeding

To create bruises and black eyes

Using colours Such as Blacks, Browns, Reds, Purples, Blues and Yellows lightly draw under the eye to the side of the eye or wherever a real black eye would appear and blend with fingertips to create a soft natural edge and to create natural bruised effect.

•Scars can be created using softened wax to create a lumpy raised appearance of the skin and then coloured using kryolan foundations to create a pale scar colour.

•latex can be used to create a scar effect on the skin similar to wax you can colour the skin using a range of scarring for skin tones.

•glycerin can be used over gelatine to create the look of burn scars glycerin creates a shiny effect as scar tissue is often shiny

List of Products used:

• Strip Gelatine
• Dermal Wax
• Kryolan supra colour palette
• Loose Powder
• Glycerin
• Kryolan foundation pallete
• Fake blood

Tools used:

• Spatula
• Fine Eye shadow brushes
• Fine lip brushes for detail
• Use fingers for blending and smoothing wax
• Powder brush

Practice of cuts and burns and split skin using fake blood

creating burn scars using gelatin and glycerin to create shiny scar tissue effect

Week1 Class notes. Ageing and Creping of the Skin

This weeks lesson with Sue was on Theatrical ageing - creping of the skin on hands and face
 In this lesson we watched a demonstration of Sue Creating creped skin using Liquid Latex and creating a wrinkle effect using supra colour.
After watching the demonstration we then attempted the effects for ourselves on our partners for the class.

 To create creped skin with latex you need to:

• First clean and dry the area
• Apply a barrier cream to avoid skin irritation
• Paint on the liquid latex using spatula or stipple sponge
• Dry using a hair dryer on a cool heat 

To create wrinkles using make up you need to:

• Apply base in correct shade or slightly lighter to give a washed out look
• Using a brown supra colour or camouflage concealer and fine brush draw delicate and fine wrinkles in the areas you would expect to find real wrinkles on a real face
• Ask the model to screw up their faces or pull faces to see where natural wrinkles will form and use this as a guide as where to draw lines
• Use supra colour in a grey/brown shade to define bags under the eyes and worsen creases under the cheek bones and create sharp contouring to make the face appear sunken in
• Powder.
• Use supra colour in and off white or yellowish white to lighten the eyebrows making them appear grey. Using an off white or yellowish white will stop the colour from looking blue on camera.

List of Products:

• Kryolan foundation palette
• Supra colour
• Camouflage concealer palette
• Loose Powder
• Liquid latex
• Barrier cream
• Tooth enamel

List of Tools used:

• Fine Lip brushes for detail
• Foundation brush
• Blending brush
• Powder brush
• Stipple sponge
• Rubber sponge
• Cotton buds
• Spatula
• Hairdryer

Practice at home